Fourmilab is surrounded on three sides by farmland. Within the summer time, bugs are all over the place. Faced with this example, defence in depth is the only option: window screens, bats, Odonata on the pond, fly strips on the home windows and swatters in every room, and as the final degree of terminal defence, high voltage bug zappers with ultraviolet fluorescent lures. These aren't elegant gadgets, but they get the job achieved. The principle couldn't be less complicated-flying insects, whose compound eyes see long-wave ultraviolet mild that mammalian eyes don't, are attracted by the lure tube, which seems to emit a dim blue mild to humans. To reach the sunshine, they need to fly between wires electrified with between four and 8 kilovolts which, when the insect completes the circuit, kill-a-bug. The one drawback (at least if you are not a flying insect) is that they don't appear to final very lengthy. After a little multiple summer, the bulb both begins to flash on and off like a strobe light or simply refuses to mild at all.

Replacement bulbs are readily out there and straightforward to install, however in my expertise, at the very least half the time changing the bulb doesn't repair the problem. With no gentle to attract the insects, a zapper is useless, so although its excessive voltage subsystem continues to work perfectly, most individuals junk it when altering the bulb doesn't make it gentle up. I'm manner too low-cost to be pleased with such a state of affairs, so I decided to open up a failed bug zapper and see what was occurring. The supply of the problem proved to be as simple as I expected and as easy to remedy, so in the hope of saving someone else the trouble of figuring it out, I've scribbled these notes on how to restore your individual bug zappers. These instructions pertain to bug zappers made by the Windhager company of Salzburg, Austria, Zap Zone Defender who've a dominant market share in this obscure industry right here in Central Europe.

Obviously, when you've got a bug zapper made by one other company, it will look completely different inside and may conceivably use a completely completely different circuit for the fluorescent lamp. Unless you perceive what you're doing and Zap Zone Defender know sufficient electronics to be confident you're not going to do something silly, it's best to go away things properly enough alone and get a brand new bug zapper. Further, we're going to be disassembling and modifying a system which, when opened up, has uncovered connections to probably lethal mains current and extremely unpleasant if not deadly excessive voltage. If you are sufficiently stupid or scatterbrained that you are prone to overlook to pull the mains plug earlier than sticking your hand contained in the guts of a bug zapper, you should stop studying instantly and select some safer undertaking, like making microwave popcorn. To start with, earlier than starting this procedure, you'll want to strive changing the bulb and see if that fixes the issue.

If it does, you've saved loads of time and, if not, you're going to want a substitute bulb in the end, so why not have one readily available when the time comes? If a new bulb does not do the trick, the problem is sort of certainly a failed fluorescent starter contained in the box, so we'll must open it up. You probably did remember to unplug the zapper before beginning to disassemble it, did not you? First, remove the bug catcher tray at the underside of the zapper, taking care not to spill lifeless bugs all over the ground or your work space. Depending on the mannequin, the two halves of the body of the bug zapper are fastened together with four or six screws. On "industrial" models, these are 2 mm metric machine screws and nuts, however some "consumer" fashions use infernal "split slot" screws which are intended to keep you from opening up the device. You see, you are a consumer, so you're expected to consume-purchase, purchase, buy, not mend issues which break.

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